You Can Sometimes Have Too Much Of a Good Thing… Paradise Islands Are Amazing
You Can Sometimes Have Too Much Of a Good Thing… Paradise Islands Are Amazing
22 January 2020
You may have a hard time to believe this -
"Only 100 travellers visited the island of Bali, arriving at the former colonial capital, Singaraja, by ship".
Can’t be right, just one hundred?
- well, that was the correct number in 1930.
It is not your fault, that you were born after that and are facing today the consequences of 3 Million annual visitors to Bali. It is what it is. No way back, I’m afraid.
As usual, the bad comes with the good. Hold on for a moment and we’ll try to sort that out.
In those old times it was sure enchanting walking along the sandy pathway in Kampung Ubud, which later became the Monkey Forest Road. There were no cars to look out for, no motorbikes, no ’taxi taxi’ in the ear.
All around just lush greenery. Small buildings. Friendly, relaxed Balinese tending to their work and ceremonies. If we try to picture paradise on earth, those days must have been close, - or where they?
You and I, who have already experienced the bright lights of a big city… getting dressed up and going to the theatre or stopping by a busy bar,- over long term surely would have missed something after a few weeks of extreme tranquility and relaxation in old Ubud. Same as with any other paradise, untouched yet from development.
From my own travels I know that even today our planet still offers plentiful other places with unspoiled tropical surroundings. You can explore by far more stunning and appealing tropical landscapes than the scenery here in Bali. Just check out the Pietons on the island of St. Lucia, the splendid Marigot Bay there, or Plantation Leyritz on Martinique, deserted island groups in the Phillipines and and … places that leave Bali way behind in terms of spellbinding natural beauty. Mountains, green plains, palm forests, rivers and bays, no pollution…
The lot.
But - but there are no and never have been Balinese people with their ancient Hindu culture living there. I guess no one needs to be told that social contacts are the spice in our lives. The unique culture and the embedded characteristics of the Balinese Hindu communities and people give the ultimate value to Bali island.
I remember someone having said: My God, give me a one armed advisor, - I cannot hear any more – "one one hand, but then on the other hand…"
However, that is exactly what we are going to do later, looking at the plus and minus of choosing to live in Bali, specially here in Ubud.
Google the words ”Bali” and ”paradise” and you’ll be confronted with almost two million hits. No need to go over much of it to find out about the essence of life for expats here. Maybe giving a quick summary from my perspective and the opinion of many of UbudProperty’s clients will create a reasonably balanced picture.
One could argue, that I, as a Ubud-resident of some 18 years, am hardly qualified to be objective. Obviously I like it here, why else would I stay, and even hope for my ashes to fertilize the ocean floor nearby?
To start with, let’s be honest and take a closer look at the cliché of ’former paradise’
For this we must take a time travel back a hundred years. Fasten your seatbelt please.
Arrived?
Imagine your visit in the 1920’s Bali is ending, or you want to return for good to where you came from after giving up living in a natural paradise. It is the long trip on the ship taking you home, resulting in the need to seriously plan ahead. Just back for a quick visit to see the family? No way.
(Compared to a day in an airplane to go almost anywhere on the planet).
Would we still sigh ’paradise’ when the appendix needs urgent removal and the local magician with his ancient art mixes up a drink and mumbles obscure prayers, while the darn thing is still inflamed and hurts like hell?
Imagine you would not be able to chat with other tourists, simply because there aren’t any.
What about having no options to choose a warung or restaurant in which to consider having another mixed fruit juice, Bintang or Singapore Sling? No choice of local dishes, Indian ones, Sushi, or whatever you are craving for. Today in Jalan Oberoi you even could eat Moroccan, Greek, Japanese, Mexican and Italian food all in one night.
100 years ago it would have been air putih or coconut water five times a day and nasi putih with local weeds. Selamat makan.
If the urge for a stroll along the water line would have come up, here from Ubud it would have required lengthy preparation and the hunt for someone to go there by horse cart in the first place.
You sure can think of many more inconveniences bordering to dangerous when thinking of malaria and denghue fever and no medications available.
Above few points may serve well to tell us that the times of old would not necessarily have been that easy or enjoyable.
Now in comparison - is life here in 2020 indeed preferable?
You can sometimes have too much of a good thing… paradise islands are amazing, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the perfect place to have a balanced lifestyle either.
However, on any given day I’d appreciate the option to decide if I want to live it simple or enjoy all that is on offer: The food choice here is great, even just the standard food in Bali, like Nasi Goreng, Mie Goreng, Chicken Satay, Babi Guling and Bakso Soup, Cap Cay, ikan … a good variety. If you get sick of rice and noodles though, there’s great seafood in Jimbaran, and most kind of international food in Ubud center or for an evening out, in Seminyak. Until recently traditional Indonesian food wasn’t anything to write home about (especially when compared to places like Thailand and Vietnam), but Bali has now carved out a nice organic niche for itself.
Now we can at reasonable prices enjoy what is super healthy and tasty at the same time.
The oodles of food choices are a plus. Yes ?
Further on the plus side of the balance sheet comes the culture:
Bali has definitely not sold out in this department. Despite being a super popular tourist destination, heaping with all-inclusive resorts, the island has maintained its soul with amazing temples and cultural sites, plenty of local performances, and a nice mélange of locals and expats.
The culture and religion have been shaping the attitude of Balinese. Everyone smiles and tries to make conversation with you and tries to help you out. Maybe it’s all that Vitamin D from the sunshine, because if we walk through a street in London, there is no ’hello’ from anyone.
I lived for a spell in Lombok. Had two substantial businesses during 4 years there and both got robbed. In my 18 years in Bali the opposite happened, the business developed into success, no interference or anything coming close to theft or pilfering. May this have to do with the different cultures? I am asking you.
Although we are here in the largest Islamic Country on Earth, with their strict and often fundamentalist set of belief and rules, Bali’s Government, the police and other infrastructure is run by a majority of local Hindu people. There is reason to believe that although the Islamic influence is getting stronger, for several generations the Hindu culture will remain the prevailing one. No drastic short-term changes to be expected for you, me and even the kids.
This year the Indonesian parliament will decide if some proposed articles regarding morality and sexual freedom will become law, - or not. If you have not heard about the details yet, better not worry, before the law is passed. It may not happen at all – and I suspect, even if – a more mellow version will be applied to Bali. After all, 60% of Tax income from Indonesian tourism comes from Bali. Does one slaughter the cow, which gives the most milk?
Politics: It appears that the Government still has difficulty to run the Country and economy in an effective and consistent way, but at least the leadership is not dangerous, - as opposed to the President in the world’s leading nation, which claims to be strongly attached to Christian principles.
It surely will take generations to eventually bring all Indonesian Provinces under one fitting hat. I cannot imagine the headaches in Jakarta to control and govern such a multitude of local autonomous entities. Given the huge task, the tradition of corruption and the lack of a sufficient number of well-educated politicians, in my mind the Indonesian Government is doing reasonably OK.
Regarding medical Facilities- Bali is moving ahead very well. May it be that investors have found out that there is an increasing source of foreign money to be had, may it be that the recently introduced public health BPJS system is making health care worthwhile for the investors, (although the Government is reporting a loss in this system). Today’s options are acceptable. The opening of a number of modern Hospitals with western trained Doctors is the assurance that we are not left in a third world country without decent medical care. Still, if there is the need for top of the range medical care, being in 2 hours in Singapore or Bangkok is reassuring too.
Another plus point - you want to bring up kids and live near International schools? There is a decent range to select from.
Now a look at the cost of living here. They clearly also belong on the plus side of our balance.
While it’s not the cheapest country in Asia, it is pretty incredible to spend an average of $50 on a meal for 4, with alcohol! Depending on income, no one has to stay hungry. If we don’t carve for imported salmon, local food from the market does not put a big hole into the pocket.
A friend moved recently from Hawaii to here. Surely not because Bali is more pretty. Living expenses were his main motive. A considerably much better life to be led here for the same cost.
On our balance sheet we now create the second column:
Which are the less desirable aspects of life in or near Ubud?
Depending on who you ask, maybe you get a dozen different answers. But 12 is less than 100. And most of those few we know well and have accepted them as unavoidable evil, such as –
Over population of Bali. Well, I and you are already part of this or consider to became one. Therefore, we cannot really blame others to want to get their slice of good life here as well. Of course, it will get worse.
However, no one who ever visited by tourist overrun locations, let’s think of Kairo for example, will compare Ubud to such places – yet.
The over-tourism is only becoming a problem, because there is no tourism culture here. Every Asian Country dumps their holidaying citizen of which many do not contribute to local business at all. It is not right to say to Taiwanese or Koreans or whichever other nation “please stay away“. But it would also not take much to point to the statistics and say: "those nationals book their activities at home, little money ends up in Indonesia and we therefore need to raise a tourism contribution fee, payable by members of those Countries upon entry. Surely there are other options to create relief and assist with the finance of tourism- infrastructure. It is not my place to look deeper into this.
Did you ever become a victim of corruption here? For us ‘normal’ expats who are keeping their nose out of delicate issues, there is no reason to complain. On a small scale the mini corruption on a street corner, when the fine for not wearing a helmet ends up in a pocket without receipt being given, that is in my opinion rather a reason for smiling than complaining.
Something to really complain about: The abundance of street dogs. They now come up in larger numbers again. That may have to do with their natural urge to create off springs, which probably cannot be addressed by talking them out of it.
Again, the local Government is not at work here, sending vet’s out to neutralize the growing mob. By the way, be aware, after heavy rain when the grass is wet, they love to come out and rest on the mostly still warm and quick drying out asphalt. Running over such a dog with a motorbike is not recommended.
Traffic. Oh yes, the never ending caravan of cars and bikes. ’Sigh’.
Regarding cars – for Indonesians, even if a motorbike would do well enough, a car is a status symbol. A ’must have’. Last year there were monthly 3.400 new registrations, mixed cars and bikes, on this small island. Times 12 month. That makes over 40.000 new means of transport. My recommendation: buy property large enough to grow your own supplies and leave only for the annual renewal of your visa status.
Do not wait for logical solutions, such as – Trucks over a certain gross weight are only permitted on the road after 10 pm. Heavy vehicles, have to move over every 3 km or 5 minutes to let following traffic pass. But then, who would control? The police is unable to check on road controls, if bike’s rear lights are working or not. Let alone figuring out about trucks blocking the streets instead of obeying the new rule. What do you think? Parking meters with a hefty fee could help to limit the number of lazy people with no real need for using the car in the center? May work or not?
I guess you did not write down the good and the less so side by side on a sheet of paper and gave each issue a value. Then calculate the outcome for the quality of life in Ubud and Bali.
However, unless I overlooked something of importance, the score is 8 : 3. Good wins.
If you see this differently, I’d like to find out where I was going wrong. Please help.
However, if you agree, the word ’paradise’ can still today be justly applied to Bali and Ubud, come to meet us at UbudProperty. Enjoy a free coffee and get educated advice on where to spend the best time of your life – as long as there is still choice, that is.
For all of the team –
Yours truly, Ray
You may have a hard time to believe this -
"Only 100 travellers visited the island of Bali, arriving at the former colonial capital, Singaraja, by ship".
Can’t be right, just one hundred?
- well, that was the correct number in 1930.
It is not your fault, that you were born after that and are facing today the consequences of 3 Million annual visitors to Bali. It is what it is. No way back, I’m afraid.
As usual, the bad comes with the good. Hold on for a moment and we’ll try to sort that out.
In those old times it was sure enchanting walking along the sandy pathway in Kampung Ubud, which later became the Monkey Forest Road. There were no cars to look out for, no motorbikes, no ’taxi taxi’ in the ear.
All around just lush greenery. Small buildings. Friendly, relaxed Balinese tending to their work and ceremonies. If we try to picture paradise on earth, those days must have been close, - or where they?
You and I, who have already experienced the bright lights of a big city… getting dressed up and going to the theatre or stopping by a busy bar,- over long term surely would have missed something after a few weeks of extreme tranquility and relaxation in old Ubud. Same as with any other paradise, untouched yet from development.
From my own travels I know that even today our planet still offers plentiful other places with unspoiled tropical surroundings. You can explore by far more stunning and appealing tropical landscapes than the scenery here in Bali. Just check out the Pietons on the island of St. Lucia, the splendid Marigot Bay there, or Plantation Leyritz on Martinique, deserted island groups in the Phillipines and and … places that leave Bali way behind in terms of spellbinding natural beauty. Mountains, green plains, palm forests, rivers and bays, no pollution…
The lot.
But - but there are no and never have been Balinese people with their ancient Hindu culture living there. I guess no one needs to be told that social contacts are the spice in our lives. The unique culture and the embedded characteristics of the Balinese Hindu communities and people give the ultimate value to Bali island.
I remember someone having said: My God, give me a one armed advisor, - I cannot hear any more – "one one hand, but then on the other hand…"
However, that is exactly what we are going to do later, looking at the plus and minus of choosing to live in Bali, specially here in Ubud.
Google the words ”Bali” and ”paradise” and you’ll be confronted with almost two million hits. No need to go over much of it to find out about the essence of life for expats here. Maybe giving a quick summary from my perspective and the opinion of many of UbudProperty’s clients will create a reasonably balanced picture.
One could argue, that I, as a Ubud-resident of some 18 years, am hardly qualified to be objective. Obviously I like it here, why else would I stay, and even hope for my ashes to fertilize the ocean floor nearby?
To start with, let’s be honest and take a closer look at the cliché of ’former paradise’
For this we must take a time travel back a hundred years. Fasten your seatbelt please.
Arrived?
Imagine your visit in the 1920’s Bali is ending, or you want to return for good to where you came from after giving up living in a natural paradise. It is the long trip on the ship taking you home, resulting in the need to seriously plan ahead. Just back for a quick visit to see the family? No way.
(Compared to a day in an airplane to go almost anywhere on the planet).
Would we still sigh ’paradise’ when the appendix needs urgent removal and the local magician with his ancient art mixes up a drink and mumbles obscure prayers, while the darn thing is still inflamed and hurts like hell?
Imagine you would not be able to chat with other tourists, simply because there aren’t any.
What about having no options to choose a warung or restaurant in which to consider having another mixed fruit juice, Bintang or Singapore Sling? No choice of local dishes, Indian ones, Sushi, or whatever you are craving for. Today in Jalan Oberoi you even could eat Moroccan, Greek, Japanese, Mexican and Italian food all in one night.
100 years ago it would have been air putih or coconut water five times a day and nasi putih with local weeds. Selamat makan.
If the urge for a stroll along the water line would have come up, here from Ubud it would have required lengthy preparation and the hunt for someone to go there by horse cart in the first place.
You sure can think of many more inconveniences bordering to dangerous when thinking of malaria and denghue fever and no medications available.
Above few points may serve well to tell us that the times of old would not necessarily have been that easy or enjoyable.
Now in comparison - is life here in 2020 indeed preferable?
You can sometimes have too much of a good thing… paradise islands are amazing, but that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s the perfect place to have a balanced lifestyle either.
However, on any given day I’d appreciate the option to decide if I want to live it simple or enjoy all that is on offer: The food choice here is great, even just the standard food in Bali, like Nasi Goreng, Mie Goreng, Chicken Satay, Babi Guling and Bakso Soup, Cap Cay, ikan … a good variety. If you get sick of rice and noodles though, there’s great seafood in Jimbaran, and most kind of international food in Ubud center or for an evening out, in Seminyak. Until recently traditional Indonesian food wasn’t anything to write home about (especially when compared to places like Thailand and Vietnam), but Bali has now carved out a nice organic niche for itself.
Now we can at reasonable prices enjoy what is super healthy and tasty at the same time.
The oodles of food choices are a plus. Yes ?
Further on the plus side of the balance sheet comes the culture:
Bali has definitely not sold out in this department. Despite being a super popular tourist destination, heaping with all-inclusive resorts, the island has maintained its soul with amazing temples and cultural sites, plenty of local performances, and a nice mélange of locals and expats.
The culture and religion have been shaping the attitude of Balinese. Everyone smiles and tries to make conversation with you and tries to help you out. Maybe it’s all that Vitamin D from the sunshine, because if we walk through a street in London, there is no ’hello’ from anyone.
I lived for a spell in Lombok. Had two substantial businesses during 4 years there and both got robbed. In my 18 years in Bali the opposite happened, the business developed into success, no interference or anything coming close to theft or pilfering. May this have to do with the different cultures? I am asking you.
Although we are here in the largest Islamic Country on Earth, with their strict and often fundamentalist set of belief and rules, Bali’s Government, the police and other infrastructure is run by a majority of local Hindu people. There is reason to believe that although the Islamic influence is getting stronger, for several generations the Hindu culture will remain the prevailing one. No drastic short-term changes to be expected for you, me and even the kids.
This year the Indonesian parliament will decide if some proposed articles regarding morality and sexual freedom will become law, - or not. If you have not heard about the details yet, better not worry, before the law is passed. It may not happen at all – and I suspect, even if – a more mellow version will be applied to Bali. After all, 60% of Tax income from Indonesian tourism comes from Bali. Does one slaughter the cow, which gives the most milk?
Politics: It appears that the Government still has difficulty to run the Country and economy in an effective and consistent way, but at least the leadership is not dangerous, - as opposed to the President in the world’s leading nation, which claims to be strongly attached to Christian principles.
It surely will take generations to eventually bring all Indonesian Provinces under one fitting hat. I cannot imagine the headaches in Jakarta to control and govern such a multitude of local autonomous entities. Given the huge task, the tradition of corruption and the lack of a sufficient number of well-educated politicians, in my mind the Indonesian Government is doing reasonably OK.
Regarding medical Facilities- Bali is moving ahead very well. May it be that investors have found out that there is an increasing source of foreign money to be had, may it be that the recently introduced public health BPJS system is making health care worthwhile for the investors, (although the Government is reporting a loss in this system). Today’s options are acceptable. The opening of a number of modern Hospitals with western trained Doctors is the assurance that we are not left in a third world country without decent medical care. Still, if there is the need for top of the range medical care, being in 2 hours in Singapore or Bangkok is reassuring too.
Another plus point - you want to bring up kids and live near International schools? There is a decent range to select from.
Now a look at the cost of living here. They clearly also belong on the plus side of our balance.
While it’s not the cheapest country in Asia, it is pretty incredible to spend an average of $50 on a meal for 4, with alcohol! Depending on income, no one has to stay hungry. If we don’t carve for imported salmon, local food from the market does not put a big hole into the pocket.
A friend moved recently from Hawaii to here. Surely not because Bali is more pretty. Living expenses were his main motive. A considerably much better life to be led here for the same cost.
On our balance sheet we now create the second column:
Which are the less desirable aspects of life in or near Ubud?
Depending on who you ask, maybe you get a dozen different answers. But 12 is less than 100. And most of those few we know well and have accepted them as unavoidable evil, such as –
Over population of Bali. Well, I and you are already part of this or consider to became one. Therefore, we cannot really blame others to want to get their slice of good life here as well. Of course, it will get worse.
However, no one who ever visited by tourist overrun locations, let’s think of Kairo for example, will compare Ubud to such places – yet.
The over-tourism is only becoming a problem, because there is no tourism culture here. Every Asian Country dumps their holidaying citizen of which many do not contribute to local business at all. It is not right to say to Taiwanese or Koreans or whichever other nation “please stay away“. But it would also not take much to point to the statistics and say: "those nationals book their activities at home, little money ends up in Indonesia and we therefore need to raise a tourism contribution fee, payable by members of those Countries upon entry. Surely there are other options to create relief and assist with the finance of tourism- infrastructure. It is not my place to look deeper into this.
Did you ever become a victim of corruption here? For us ‘normal’ expats who are keeping their nose out of delicate issues, there is no reason to complain. On a small scale the mini corruption on a street corner, when the fine for not wearing a helmet ends up in a pocket without receipt being given, that is in my opinion rather a reason for smiling than complaining.
Something to really complain about: The abundance of street dogs. They now come up in larger numbers again. That may have to do with their natural urge to create off springs, which probably cannot be addressed by talking them out of it.
Again, the local Government is not at work here, sending vet’s out to neutralize the growing mob. By the way, be aware, after heavy rain when the grass is wet, they love to come out and rest on the mostly still warm and quick drying out asphalt. Running over such a dog with a motorbike is not recommended.
Traffic. Oh yes, the never ending caravan of cars and bikes. ’Sigh’.
Regarding cars – for Indonesians, even if a motorbike would do well enough, a car is a status symbol. A ’must have’. Last year there were monthly 3.400 new registrations, mixed cars and bikes, on this small island. Times 12 month. That makes over 40.000 new means of transport. My recommendation: buy property large enough to grow your own supplies and leave only for the annual renewal of your visa status.
Do not wait for logical solutions, such as – Trucks over a certain gross weight are only permitted on the road after 10 pm. Heavy vehicles, have to move over every 3 km or 5 minutes to let following traffic pass. But then, who would control? The police is unable to check on road controls, if bike’s rear lights are working or not. Let alone figuring out about trucks blocking the streets instead of obeying the new rule. What do you think? Parking meters with a hefty fee could help to limit the number of lazy people with no real need for using the car in the center? May work or not?
I guess you did not write down the good and the less so side by side on a sheet of paper and gave each issue a value. Then calculate the outcome for the quality of life in Ubud and Bali.
However, unless I overlooked something of importance, the score is 8 : 3. Good wins.
If you see this differently, I’d like to find out where I was going wrong. Please help.
However, if you agree, the word ’paradise’ can still today be justly applied to Bali and Ubud, come to meet us at UbudProperty. Enjoy a free coffee and get educated advice on where to spend the best time of your life – as long as there is still choice, that is.
For all of the team –
Yours truly, Ray